For those of you who have cross-stitched, can you answer three questions for me:
- If a pattern calls for 28 count Aida, with two threads over two stitches, how much difference would it make if I used 14 count Aida and worked two threads over one stitch? I understand if there are half or quarter stitches, the 28 count would be easier, but for my first piece, I can’t find 28 count locally, but I can find 14 count, and I want to get get started on something.
- If it’s a series of 5 little pieces, and I do one or two of them on 14 count, then I find 28 count and do the last three on that, will it be obvious on the finished pieces? If I find the 28 count, I’m probably going to do it just to see the difference in how I like stitching 2 over 2 vs. 2 over 1 and to see if I can see a difference but I’m wondering what you’ve found.
- Since I don’t have a huge selection of colors on hand, if I’m cross-stitching a piece and come to a color I don’t have and I leave that little area unstitched, go back and stitch it when I get the right color, is that going to be obvious. Say I’m doing a tree and there are four greens. I have three of those greens but not the fourth so I leave several areas of about 6 or 8 stitches unstitched and go back and do those later, is that fourth color going to look more like a “patch” on the tree instead of tree with several shades? Is there not going to be a smooth transition from color to color? I started thinking about this because I was reading something where someone had stitched windows. Say it was 5 x 5 stitches for the window panes, then when they went back and added all the “wood trim” later, it looked like that sat on top of the windows (as it would in real life) instead of just being a different color across the piece. Another example that popped into my head – if I were stitching a brown dog and he has a green collar. If I stitch each green stitch as I come to it, will it look different if I stitch the entire dog, leaving the collar unstitched, then go back and fill in the collar stitches?
Thanks!
Kathy says
#1. You certainly can use 14 count instead
#2 The thread count also gives texture to your piece, especially the background, so yes I think it would be noticeable. How noticeable, I don’t know, and only you can decide if/how much it would bother you
#3 I know some people that stitch in order. (top down or left right) I usually stitch by color- ie do all the green on the whole piece and then move on to the next . I’ve never seen it make a difference.
#4 Have fun!
Kathy
Nina Thoren says
As a former cross stitcher now mainly quilter I have always stitched all of 1 color and went back and stitched the next color and when I was done it didn’t really show.I think you should be ok using the 14 count instead of the 28 but I would do all pieces in the series on the same count as the background that isn’t stitched will look different. Have fun may have to get out my stuff and stitch again.
Donna Williams says
Hey! 1/2 Yes, I believe it would be obvious. Consistency would be key, so one or the other but not both. 3 It shouldn’t be obvious. Lots of people stitch all the greens, then all the reds, etc and everything else being equal should not matter at all. 3a. As above, as long as tension etc remains the same, shouldn’t be an issue. That’s my experience anyway. Hope that helps!
Marcie says
Substituting 14 for 28-count: I have never used 28-count, but here are some thoughts.
If you decide to use 14-count (and that is a good way to start), I would consider using three strands of floss on 14, to actually get the coverage that you want. I did some ornaments for this year on 14 and the instructions with the kits were to use 3 strands. You could make a test piece and see how the coverage looks.
I would probably stick with one size for a series, but I’m sensitive to my own preference for consistency. It would be like paying attention to the directionality of some printed fabrics when laying out a quilt or quilt block.
I love that you are enjoying XS. My three crafts since the early 70s have been XS, knitting, and quilting! At any one time, usually one of the three fades a bit, but I always come back to each one.
Suzette Harris says
I agree with the above!
Judy H says
I think that if you vary your material in the same project it will be noticeably different.
If you leave a patch and stitch it later, that’s fine. I’ve done it many many times. Usually what helps to define or raise a series of stitches is an outline, beads, or knots.
Remember to cross all your stitches in the same direction, and a half stitch doesn’t mean just one side of the stitch – it means that half the block is filled. You’d stitch into the middle of the square for one of the stitches that would have been a full length of the square if it was a normal stitch. (I hope that makes sense.) So if you are doing a project that calls for 28 count over two squares, it may be that they have incorporated a lot of half stitches and it would be easier on that fabric. Just something to consider.
My father made some fabulous cross stitched pieces, and you’ve made me think of them. I think I’ll ask my mother for one. He passed away in 2019, and I’d like to have one to keep.
Feel free to email me and if I can answer any questions I’ll be happy to help.
Judy Laquidara says
I knew that about the half stitches and that’s why I was wondering if I should wait til 28 count Aida arrives but I haven’t really looked at the pattern.
I wasn’t thinking about the unstitched areas/background showing and that would probably look different on 14 vs. 28 count. Dang it. I want to get stated.
It would be so nice to have at least one piece your dad made.
Carol says
My 2 cents echo the commenter above. And there is a definite different look to 28 count and 14 count. I love 28 count but my aging eyes made it too difficult to stitch on. I’ve always stitched by color. I prefer not changing thread color so many times through a project.
Elle says
1. You can use 14 count. But don’t stitch over 2 threads. The 14 count X will be the same size as going over 2 threads on 28 count. 28 count takes 4 squares to equal 1 14 count square.
2. The stitching will be mostly the same. What will look different is the non-stitched cloth around the stitching as the weave is a different size.
3. No problem going back and filling in. I do single colors extensively and then go back. I don’t change colors/needles constantly to do a row at a time.
JustGail says
I too stitch an area of color, then switch colors and often go back and fill in spots I’ve skipped. I tried to stitch row by row, switching colors as needed and ended up with a tangled mess. I could see leaving an area you wanted to appear raised to be stitched last, as it might be easier to judge how loose to leave the stitches?
And yes, the difference in aida vs linen would be obvious, unless *maybe* if colors were different. Very different, as in white or ivory aida and medium or dark blue linen.
Darlene says
I’m going to suggest that you do an on-line search for x-stitch stitches.
28 ct is usually worked over two threads therefore your stitches would be equal to stitches done on 14 ct. To determine the size of your actual design take the stitch count of the design and divide it by the thread count of the fabric you’re using to determine the size of your actual design. Always add at least 6 inches to your design size to determine the size of the fabric you’ll need to stitch on. (I hope that makes sense) Aida is usually 11, 14, 16 and 18 count. The higher counts are usually linen or even weaves.
That’s a lot of information I just threw at you. I hope I didn’t confuse you! If you have a Joann’s, Michael’s or Hobby Lobby nearby they occasionally carry x-stitch fabric (especially Hobby Lobby)
Judy Laquidara says
There is an Aida 28 count and that’s what one of my patterns calls for.
Our Michaels had very little in the line of cross-stitch, Hobby Lobby had a nice selection of DMC but hardly any cloth and I forgot about JoAnn’s.
Katie says
I’m also curious what design is calling for 28 ct aida. I have never seen it in that count and a Google search didn’t bring up any suppliers of it.
Aida has a different type of weave than evenweave and linen so even if counts were the same, I would see the obvious difference if they were pieces I stitched. Never would I mention to someone else about their work however as I would assume it was a personal design choice.
Darlene says
Now I’m intrigued. LOL What pattern are you using that calls for 28ct aida. I’m very curious!
Romonia Dinkla says
You need to decide if you want to stitch on Aida cloth or another type of evenweave. A 14 count aida will be the same size as a 28 count evenweave. Aida is easier for beginning because you only have to find one stitch instead of over two threads at a time. From what I have seen of newer patterns, they don’t use so much of the half or quarter stitches, mostly whole cross stitch. the background of the cloth will be different but the stitches will look the same. As far as using the white for the kittens, you could coffee or tea dye the white fabric. It’s really easy, lots of u-tube videos. Good Luck!
Judy Laquidara says
I’m obviously a beginner (though I cross-stitched quite a bit years ago) but I think 14 count anything that you’re doing 2 over 1 on, will be the same as 28 count anything, including 28 count Aida, so long as you’re doing 1 or 2 over 2. What they show the kittens on is tan/light rust and that works great for those kittens but I’m making gray kittens so I want a platinum or very light gray cloth.
Romonia Dinkla says
When I did cross stitch years ago, I only used aida. I have worked some on evenweave, linen or lugana. It does take more concentration on the evenweave vs. aida but the look is very nice. There is so much fabric to choose from now that it does get confusing. I just bought all kinds so I would have a chance to experience it all.
Dottie Newkirk says
I agree with the previous comments. The big thing (for me) would be to stick with 14 count for all the same project (or 28 count for same project). I wouldn’t mix the 2 sizes because you’re going to see the unstitched totally differently. The 28 count will be so much finer than the 14 count – again, talking about the unstitched background.
Like others have also said, I stick with the same color until it’s finished, then switch colors until the project is completed.
Liz says
AARRGGHH… I had a comment almost done and then lost it… so here I go again….
fabric – get samples to try for different sizes as well as weaves, such as a single weave or a double weave.Both of you can practice stitches on these samples. Once you decide on using patterns and not kits, then you can buy yardage!
thread – consider pearl cotton. Size 8 = 3 strand floss and it is easier since it doesn’t unravel and easier to thread on needles.
storage – if you get skeins, then using snack baggies is easy to keep things straight as well as keeping the color code with the thread. And as with yarn, buy enough to make the project and keep the stuff together. No raiding other projects!
cutter vs scissors – consider getting the clover yarn cutter which is a rotary type blade in a fancy cover. Advantage is that you can carry it on a plane and if you drop it, it doesn’t cut/stab anything.
starts & finishes – practice knotting the thread vs weaving it in for the start & finish. It may impact the look/feel of the piece. And if you are doing one color at a time, learning how to secure the thread over a distance makes for a cleaner project back and the thread doesn’t get pulled up into another stitch.
other options – consider needlepoint vs cross stitch especially if you like to do different stitches. I’m more familiar with needlepoint, but there are lots of stitch options, like there are in crewel or embroidery work. Heck, check Swedish embroidery – it is a bit more mechanical in design, but it is pretty and I still have some towels I did way back at camp.
Have fun…
Carol H says
I would consider loop starting instead of knots, unless you use pin stitch starts away from the stitched area so your completed stitches cover the length on the back.
Laura H. says
Re: Clover cutter — I had a Clover cutter that I loved and kept on a necklace. I wore it on an airplane flight so I could do handwork. When I went to cut my thread, I found that the halves had come open and somewhere along the way I’d lost the round blade. Had no clue that could happen! Gave me a fright when I considered ways someone could unknowingly get cut by it, or if used by someone for nefarious reasons. But it was gone and there was nothing I could do at that point.
Nelle Coursey says
I try to do all the stitches in the same color and then go back and add the other colors. It usually works better that way. And I don’t have to go from one needle to another right in the middle of a pattern.
Shari says
Check out some of Fat Quarter Shop’s Floss Tube videos. Kimberly Jolly often shows fabrics in the same color with different counts. The dye takes to the different sizes differently, so you could end up with a totally different look between a 28 and 14 ct. 14 ct is easier for starting out. The only time you might get a “patched” look is if the thread is starting to separate at the end – you know how it gets when you’ve pulled it through the fabric a lot and starts looking ragged at the end. Also, whites and bleached tend to separate more. Good luck. It’s a nice hobby without a whole lot of prep work.
Carol H says
Just a tip on online ordering… fabric and floss has been VERY spotty since Covid. Manufacturers are having trouble with raw materials, to say nothing of labor issues for spinning, weaving, dying. So many usually reliable shops will simply not have the size of fabric in the color (especially true for quarter and half and full yards) you want or all the colors of floss your pattern calls for. I love 123Stitch, The Silver Needle in OK, Stoney Creek in MI but still have to shop around. You can get cones of DMC in limited colors from Office Supply of all places, and that might be an economic choice (although harder to store, AND to hide from Vince, due to the size) for colors like 310 (black), 5200 (bright white) and blanc that are common for most all patterns. Speaking from experience here!
cindy says
if you have a sharp needle, half stitches on 14 count cloth are not difficult. if you are eager to get started and can get the 14 count, go for it.
cindy says
starting — no knot, leave an inch or so tail and pull it under the line of fabric you are stitching on and stitch over it so that your stitches hold it in place. finishing — with the thread on the back of the fabric where you have just finished the stitch, pull it through under the previous stitching for several stiches. makes it neat, keeps it there and doesn’t require knots. wish i knew how to send you a picture. can i email it to you?