Here’s a question for the knitting readers out there: What’s your favorite fingering weight yarn to use for sweaters? Why do you like it better than others? I’ll wait for some of your opinions and then I’ll give my opinion.
I guess while you’re at it, you can tell us all your favorite sweater yarn in all weights. Sweaters have areas that get lots of rubbing – under arms, at the tummy if you’re crossing your arms or wearing them while doing chores, elbows. I find that so many yarns in all weights get fuzzy and pill (little balls) in high wear areas. I’ve mentioned before that I wore a sweater I made recently . . maybe 4 hours and it looked so awful that I was embarrassed to be seen wearing it.
My friend, Denise, mentioned that she was thinking about making Nordiska. I had looked at it several times but fingering weight sweaters are not my favorites. As I told Denise, you’d never know it by the amount of fingering weight yarn I have in sweater quantities. Fingering weight yarn seems to have no “body” to me and it just hangs like and old, worn out T-shirt so that any bulges (good or bad) are highlighted by the fingering weight yarn resting on them.
Anyway . . that’s my opinion. I do have a plan for making Nordiska . . a plan that may or may not work. I’ll also tell you about that plan later . . when I’m home and have had a chance to look through my yarn.
dezertsuz says
Interesting pattern. You don’t want my uninformed opinion. All I know is the quilt shop had 40% off all their yarn section today (and fabric, too, of course!) and I found a lime green that I really liked … but I don’t knit. LOL It WAS a fingering weight, though, and about 400 yards per skein. I knew to look at that! =) It was twisted with a strand of some glittery stuff.
Lyndsey says
I like 4ply and double knitting for sweaters which I think are your sport and DK weights. The thicker yarns are just too bulky and too heavy for my wrists when knitting. I do knit using the heavier weights especially for men’s sweaters but it takes me ages to finish.
Mary M says
I just don’t make sweaters. I don’t usually have a problem finding rtw sweaters to fit and by the time I buy enough yarn for my size, I could buy two sweaters. I make socks, shawls, caps and such. So no answer.
Teri says
I’m not a big fan of knitting fingering weight yarn for sweaters…..I buy them I don’t knit them….I do like sport and DK weight for the sweaters I knit….
Sharon Decker says
I’m with the people who prefer yarn heavier than fingering weight. At 75, I do not have a body like the ones modeling most of the sweater patterns. I like using worsted because it goes more quickly, but then I don’t make too many sweaters. I made a Stephen West men’s sweater (Drangey) for my son last year for Christmas. He sent me a picture of him wearing it – he had it on backwards. I enjoyed making it because it was definitely not a “vanilla” sweater. I also prefer sweaters made top down or bottom up rather than having to sew the sweater together when I am finished knitting..
Nelle Coursey says
I am too green to advise you on this. You should be telling me what I need to get when I want to knit a sweater! LOL
Ann says
Hi I have made quit a few sweaters from a variety of yarns some of my favorites are schoppell zauberball for a cardigan that I have worn a lot and still looks great. I made the same pattern with leftover sock yarn held double with a lace yarn and that has minimal pilling. Hi love that sweater. I have also used Mrs. Crosby yarn I believe it was called train case from Webs that has worn well. In worsted weight I have used cascade superwash the first tw9 were great the last one not so much lots of pilling and I learned cascade. Is now being spun in China with less twist in the yarn. I learned a lot from the knitters book of yarn and the knitters book of wool by Clara parkes
Yarns that I have been disappointed are knit picks a worsted tweed,looked like something the cat drug in.i do like knit picks for felting. I made a sweater with valley worsted which also pilled and shrank fortunately so did I since I knit it so the fit is better at least for everyday wear. I also made one with malbrigio mechita and shrank it to everyday wear and don’t leave the house or put a cardigan over it.
I learn something with each sweater. And the main thing with yarn is you get what you pay for.good yarn is worth the money
Ann
Judy Laquidara says
I have not found that the price has a lot to do with how well the yarn holds up. The sweater I mentioned that pilled so badly and looked horrible after four hours of wear was one of the most expensive yarns I’ve used (and a very popular brand). I have never been a fan of Cascade 220 SW, though I use it for some of Addie’s sweaters since it can be machine washed. I still like the 220 that is non-superwash.
I love Madelinetosh Work Sock (classed as sport but closer to DK). I think it holds up well. Madelinetosh Vintage (worsted) holds up well. I’ve made sweaters for Addie with it and they still look good. Dream in Color Classy (worsted) and I’ve been happy with that. Malabrigo Rios is a fairly inexpensive worsted weight yarn and it’s held up good.
Socks I’ve made with Opal yarns have held up better than most other yarns and it’s a good bit less expensive than many of the sock yarns and it does fine in the washer and dryer.
I’m just a little disappointed in some of the more expensive yarns.